"More is more": the camp wardrobe

10 May 2019 | Posted by Zackary

In a way, camp style is to fashion what B series films are to cinema: both bear a form of eccentricity, of singular originality that gives them all their charm. Each divides and polarizes opinions; it probably takes a certain eye to find good in bad taste.

Yet, if duds with zombies are mostly guilty pleasures, camp states loud and clear — let's say it's difficult for it to go unnoticed. A mindset in its own right, it holds a different perspective on fashion, sometimes ironic, often jovial, leaving room for eccentricity. More than any other approach, it embodies the idea of playing with one's outfits to express his or her personality into a myriad of influences.

At a time when so many looks seem standardized, it brings a colorful breath of fresh air, that conveys a true notion of stylistic individuality. Between trompe-l'oeil, exaggerated volumes, avalanches of details and tongue-in-cheek touches, we let our cloakroom play it camp thanks to these 13 pieces. Minimalist friends, beware of syncope...

How can you make yourself look like a Moscow mobster on the way to work? With a VETEMENTS top, whose combination of nude color and tattoo-like patterns will give the impression that you are carrying a suitcase of diamonds inside your backpack. Something to impose, think about it when you'll have to negotiate your raise... (650 €, women and men.)

We enjoy the falsely candid appearance of this Calvin Klein 205W39NYC sweater. Counterbalance its pattern with pants with raw influences, such as torn black jeans or leather trousers, or enhance its romantic side with more formal notes. Its oversized cut is enough to give it a contemporary accent, capable of moving from one repertoire to another, while preserving its Saint-Germain-des-Prés style vein. At €1,485, all you have to do now is cry over your lost loves at the Café de Flore. The advantage? Following the departure of Raf Simons as head of the design studio, CK announced the discontinuation of its high-end line. Who knows, you might even have a collector's item there...

In the same spirit, Kid Studio uses patterns that appear to have been drawn by a travelling portraitist, applied to jeans whose raw colour recalls that of a painter's canvas. A light interpretation of a classic, ideal in summer. As a bonus, its drawstrings at the bottom of the leg allow more versatility regarding shoes. (190 €)



Worshipped by all the hype beasts, the Off-White label has a small camp dimension. By signing this belt, its transforms a strap such as those found in the back of a truck into a fashion accessory, widely copied since by retailers. (160 € — « I’m broke » version available here.)

A cut worthy of an odalisque, highlighted by a pronounced waist and a clever set of pleats, completed by silver sequins ensuring to catch all the light. As usual, Marc Jacobs masters the volumes to create a powerful and elegant silhouette, taken somewhere between Damascus and disco. (730 € — « I’m broke » version available here.)

If you're still afraid of going unnoticed, take it to the next level with a great camp classic: the feather. The rule is simple: the more, the better. In any case, the lead dancer red mini-dress option is completely acceptable... (890 €)

We release the Louis XIV within us with this Gucci bomber. Reproducing the brocade motifs of aristocratic clothing, it combines sophistication and casualness. One can imagine it slipping over a formal white shirt, as much as a hoodie in a more urban outfit. (2.220 € — « I’m broke » version available here.)

Moncler is a brand best known for its down jackets. Simone Rocha is an Irish designer with a universe rooted in the British countryside. The union of the two? A jacket made of light pink technical fabric, waterproof, enhanced by laser-cut yokes in the shape of bucolic flowers. In short, when Jane Austen meets the future... (890 €)

With their slit modelled on that of the samurai — don't see a camel toe there —, the Tabi are probably the most emblematic shoes of Martin Margiela's work. As far as we are concerned, we prefer them in their white version and its leather with a stone-like appearance. (950 €)

As soon as it becomes mainstream, camp is no longer camp. However, some of the hottest trends right now are rooted in it. Wearing the sneakers your father used to put on to go running, even before they were called "sneakers", was still a bold move not so long ago. If we have to credit Balenciaga and its Triple S for the popularization of this aesthetic, we will spare our wallet with this Adidas pair. (96 € — Photo via Pinterest)

Another incarnation of the ugly-turned-pretty: the fanny pack, which was used either to store your marbles or flea marketers' change. Modern and bling, Versace makes it a bold piece with a great deal of medallions exhumed from its 90s archives. (1.190 €)

For each major house, everything starts with the drawing of its designer, which the head seamstress then translate onto a mannequin. At MOSCHINO, Jeremy Scott turns this tool into an original bag that will add an unexpected touch to your outfits. The most camp of all labels applies here one of its almost unavoidable principles: the trompe l'oeil and its misleading appearances... (650 €)

This is not a MOSCHINO toy. No, really, it's a bottle of perfume... (98 €)

The beauty of camp? If you want to, do it... •

Hugh Hefner's and Donatella Versace's love child, I am the visible half of the duo behind ZACKARIUM. Addicted to fashion and to Lucky Strike, my mission is to guide you smoothly through the jungle of brands and catwalks.

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