The labels of a new streetwear

22 March 2019 | Posted by Zackary

Flagship style of the decade, from fashion weeks to Instagram feeds, the reign of streetwear seems to be gradually reaching maturity. Don’t worry, it’s not about throwing away your sneakers, nor burning your sweaters in an auto-da-fé wearing a three-piece suit… Leaving its mark on creation, he still has a bright future ahead of it.

Yet, like every major fashion trend, it must reinvent itself in order to maintain its relevance. While it will probably be less prevalent in the coming years, designers are already mixing it with other influences to try to shape a different interpretation. After the return to the 90s and its hip-hop codes, the aesthetics of skateboarding, or the post-Soviet wave of Eastern Europe, can streetwear really take on a new face?

Here are five labels convinced of it…

The most eclectic: Raf Simons

(Raf Simons — FW19 ; © Alessandro Lucioni for GoRunway)

A leading figure in streetwear, Raf Simons is one of the first great couturiers to imagine its union with luxury. He therefore created a surprise during his SS19 show, stating that “we need a new outline […] Of course I was part of it myself, but there are too many hoodies with prints out there. Something needs to shift.” (source i-D Magazine, editor’s note).

Focusing only on his eponymous brand after a stint at Calvin Klein, the Belgian designer relies on cinematographic references à la David Lynch to create a more elegant style, without ever giving up the underground accent of his early days.

Our little favorites

The kinkiest: JordanLuca

(JordanLuca — FW19 ; © JordanLuca)

With a little less than two years of existence and a first fashion week last January, the label is still in its early days. Founded by Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto, its designers wish to reconcile the craft and quality of Italian fashion with London’s eclecticism.

In the wake of the British capital, their pieces are a blend of inspirations ranging from tailoring to post-punk, cut in noble materials, with a pronounced taste for sexual allusions. We can’t wait to see the e-shop finally launched…

The most popular: 1017 ALYX 9SM

(1017 ALYX 9SM — FW19 ; © Alessandro Luciano for GoRunway)

Coming from the music industry, Matthew M. Williamson is a fashion autodidact. He first gets his hands on stage costumes, then within different collectives, before eventually launching ALYX.

Evolving in a style with strong military and utilitarian dimensions, he is soon noticed by the public, particularly for his collaboration with Kim Jones of Dior Men. Its signature: the safety buckle, used from the waist of a jacket to the fastener of a necklace.

Our little favorites

The most committed: Pyer Moss

(Pyer Moss — SS19 ; © Yannis Vlamos for GoRunway)

While fashion is already opening up more and more to diversity, Pyer Moss is determined to push things forward. A New Yorker of Haitian origin, politics is inextricably linked to his approach to clothing. After speaking out against police violence and supporting the Black Lives Matter movement, he establishes the the quarters of his SS19 show in Weeksville, one of the first free African-American communities in history.

His work often involves the works of other black artists, adopts ethnic patterns, and even contributes to the revival of the brand FUBU.

Our little favorites 

The most refined: Fila Fjord

(Fila Fjord — FW19 ; © Fila)

Created by Fila, Fjord enriches the Italian sports equipment manufacturer with a line designed for a more sophisticated, mature audience. For the occasion, it joines forces with Danish designer Astrid Andersen, relying on her to infuse it with a Scandinavian touch.

Jumpsuits are cut from monochrome wool flannels, cashmere sweaters are transformed into long, sleek dresses. A successful bet for the label, whose first collection presented in January should soon arrive in stores.

One thing is for sure, streetwear has not said its last word yet… •

Hugh Hefner's and Donatella Versace's love child, I am the visible half of the duo behind ZACKARIUM. Addicted to fashion and to Lucky Strike, my mission is to guide you smoothly through the jungle of brands and catwalks.

Discover more articles

Fashion, with a bit of wit...

Passionate, bold, and probably a little bit vulgar. Welcome to ZACKARIUM.

Your weekly dose of style, directly in your mailbox.