FW19: the new designers to follow

11 March 2019 | Posted by Zackary

The fashion month brings together several hundred presentations — about seventy-five shows in Paris alone this season, not to mention showrooms, pop-up stores and other special events. In New York, the first day of the calendar is dedicated to more than forty different brands…

With so many gatherings, imagining a spectacular show becomes a communication axis in its own right. Since his arrival at Saint LaurentVaccarello has enjoyed hosting at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. Ralph Lauren has models walking between the tables of his New York café, when Lagerfeld leaves us a chalet as his last Chanel decor.

Philipp Plein, pope of leather adorned with Swarovski crystals and unofficial sponsor of French rap, is no stranger to the exercise. After inviting artists like Dita von Teese and Nicki Minaj for a performance, he turns to Kanye West this time. As the buzz begins to take hold, Kim Kardashian ends it in a tweet: her husband has not signed any such contract, the designer has been scammed — and relieved of a little less than a million dollars.

In the midst of this delusions of grandeur, many designers are still in their early stages, relying solely on their work of the garment to get noticed. Let’s take a look at five of them…

Ich bin ein Ottolinger

(Ottolinger FW19 — © Filippo Fior for GoRunway)

Based in Berlin, Ottolinger brings the German conceptual back to our beautiful capital. Strongly influenced by literature and cinema, the label draws its inspiration from a different work for each collection.

Last Monday, we thus discovered its interpretation of Three Body Problem, a Chinese SF novel about a dark history of society divided by the arrival of aliens. Beyond the pitch, which can be perplexing, the brand nevertheless strives to create original pieces, which remain completely wearable.

Our little favorites

Don’t resist the Luar

(Luar FW19 — © Armando Grillo for GoRunway)

Presenting its fourth collection, Luar continues its approach of deconstructing the office wear. A genderless brand, it also incorporates elements from the streets of New York, where its creator Raul Lopez grew up. If his style rings a bell, it’s probably because he’s a former founding member of the currently closed label Hood by Air. However, he avoids the copy-cat pitfall, by successfully transmitting his own vision.

We lament over the e-shop in transition, which only gives us a few basics to get our teeth into…

Our little favorites

Richard Quinn Elizabeth

(Richard Quinn FW19 — © Daniele Oberrauch for GoRunway)

While some designers would pay celebrities to sit in the front row of their shows, Richard Quinn has a special guest: Queen Elizabeth herself. At almost 30, he is the first ever recipient of the Her Majesty’s British Designer Award, awarded in 2018.

He probably owes the sovereign’s favour to his taste for classic English motifs and bright colours, which he reinterprets with modernity. Precious tartan coupled with latex, distorted houndstooth or XXL flowers, prints seem to become his trademark…

Our little favorites

Let it Rokh 

(Rokh FW19 — © Estrop)

Rok Hang has created his eponymous label just two years ago. Born in South Korea, he studied in London before joining the Céline studio in the Phoebe Philo era.

Rich of a multicultural point of view, he sews a patchwork of references that draws the contours of a half-androgynous, half-lolita woman, using the male wardrobe to appropriate all its symbolic power.

Our little favorites

United Colors of Comeback

(Backstage Benetton FW 19 — © Giacomo Cabrini)

I agree with you, Benetton is not a new brand — founded in 65, it’s quite the opposite. At its peak in the 1980s and 1990s, it has been gradually damaged by giants such as H&M, Zara and Uniqlo. It is now trying to make a comeback, by placing Jean-Charles de Castelbajac at the head of creation.

For the occasion, it even organizes the first fashion week show in its history… which does not disappoint. Under the impetus of the Frenchman, the Italian brand has regained a fashionable flair, an attitude, far from the simple blatant basics to which it is associated.

The collection, called Rainbow Machine, is already partly available.

Our little favorites

Besides, it is not uncommon to find reasonably priced models at young labels. Take the time to look, who knows how long it will last. So when your colleague will compliment your new piece, be nice, share this article… •

Hugh Hefner's and Donatella Versace's love child, I am the visible half of the duo behind ZACKARIUM. Addicted to fashion and to Lucky Strike, my mission is to guide you smoothly through the jungle of brands and catwalks.

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