Fashion Week FW20: 5 young designers from London to follow

28 June 2019 | Posted by Zackary

If the battle for the greatest capital rages at every new fashion week, Paris remains the undisputed queen of the menswear collections. For six consecutive days, the city beats to the rhythm of presentations shaping the style of the man of the future — well, of next summer at least. The most sought-after brands, from Off-White to GmbH, maintain our Instagram street cred, where houses such as Dior and Hermès captivate luxury enthusiasts. 

Meanwhile, its neighbour across the Channel suffers from a lack of headliners. Burberry now combines its visions for men and women in a single presentation, so does Vivienne Westwood, while J.W. Anderson only shows in France...

Without admitting defeat, the English stronghold organizes its resistance. Far from the established names, its scene is made up of young talents, gained by a typically British effervescence. We're focusing on five of them.

Feng Chen Wang's China

(Backstage Feng Chen Wang; © Daniele Fummo for Dazed)

A finalist for the 2016 LVMH prize, a handful of years was enough for Feng Chen Wang to lay the foundations of her aesthetics, based on Chinese influences combined with Western lines. This season is no exception: for the occasion, the designer focuses on crafts from her home province, using traditional weaving methods and dyes made from soya, lemon and natural indigo.

On a catwalk that is both masculine and feminine, the collection demonstrates great overall coherence. The light fabrics and soft shades make up an ensemble that is certainly easy to wear, but no less original.

Our little favorites

C2H4 explosion

(C2H4; © Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION)

C2H4 is the formula of the ethylene molecule. The name of the label reflects the passion of its founder for chemistry, designing a wardrobe where style is inspired by science. Drawing from several sub-cultures, from geek to punk, he assembles a mix of influences that shapes the contours of a streetwear at the crossroads of genres.

Based in Los Angeles, he chose (as usual) London to present his latest collection, Post Human Era. Without going into dystopia, it consists of pieces with futuristic lines, reinforced by metallic tones and matching accessories. We won't complain if the end of the world actually looks like this...

Our little favorites

Directed by Stefan Cooke

(Backstage Feng Chen Wang; © Charlotte O'Shea pour Dazed)

Another finalist for the LVMH prize (2019 edition), Stefan Cooke is first revealed in the Fashion East incubator, of which Astrid Andersen is an alumnus.

For its very first solo show, the brand draws inspiration from drama students met in New York. It then imagines them strolling among the stage costumes, which they associate with their own clothes. In terms of workmanship, the knits are openworked, patterns are printed in trompe-l'oeil, and some details imitate century-old models. The result? Pieces that are both urban and theatrical, with a romantic spirit that seems to come from a Shakespeare play.

We're waiting for the e-shop's creation...

Saved by Studio ALCH

(© Studio ALCH)

Built around the notions of deconstruction and transformation, Studio ALCH imagines pieces that extend the life of other clothes or objects. For instance, cette chemise réversible, cut from a golf umbrella.

Faithful to its DNA, the brand once again offers sportswear silhouettes, enhanced with abstract patterns and numerous details, on fabrics associated in patchwork or through yokes. The Nike logo reminds us of its relationship with the equipment manufacturer, who enrolled it in 2017 for a reinterpretation of the Air Max, and has continued to support it ever since.

Our little favorites

Not your typical Paria

(Backstage paria/FARZANEH; © Charlotte O'Shea pour Dazed)

With only four presentations to her credit, Paria Farzaneh is already considered one of the most promising talents of London. Between England, where she grew up, and Iran, where her family fled, her style is defined as a link between these two cultures.

For her SS20 presentation, the designer destabilizes her audience: the screens installed do not project images of the show, but of the assistance itself, while models walks in masks. On the outfit side, we find the brand's emblematic Persian-inspired prints, a rich palette of colours, and a particular attention to volume. It is also the perfect opportunity to unveil its new collaboration with Converse.

Our little favorites

Far from being overwhelmed by the Brexit threat, London's designers continue their rise season after season, defining a style that nourishes the richness of their city — and our closets. •

Hugh Hefner's and Donatella Versace's love child, I am the visible half of the duo behind ZACKARIUM. Addicted to fashion and to Lucky Strike, my mission is to guide you smoothly through the jungle of brands and catwalks.

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