Every season, the fashion weeks festival brings together hundreds of new collections. From the indestructible mastodons like Versace, Prada or Dior, to the darling brands Off-White, Y/Project and Jacquemus, each city has its favourites, those whose presentations we are always eagerly waiting for.
In the midst of these major events, small creators are only in their first steps. Organizing more confidential fashion shows, or simply relying on showroom presentations and a neat look-book, they are trying to make a name for themselves in an already saturated environment. Sometimes lacking in resources, many remain no less brilliant, while others are more talked about by the buzz around them. Whether they embody multicultural, avant-garde or conceptual fashion, we are looking at five talents that may constitute the new guard of menswear.
GmbH, from Kreuzberg to Paris
“GmbH” is the German equivalent of “LLC”. Yes, Limited Liability Company. A rather neutral name for a fashion brand, which is far from being so when it comes to its collections. Founded by a duo of Berliners, the youngster from the Parisian fashion week manages to capture like no other brand this cyberpunk spirit, provocative and casual at the same time, that you could experience on a rush at 11am in the Berghain.
The creators regularly give meaning to their clothes, such as security vests designed to denounce the current political climate. Although bold, GmbH parts remain completely portable and are gaining an increasingly wide audience. Our favorite? The Brann top and its futuristic side.
Pal Zileri is back
Pal Zileri is not what you might call a new brand. Created in the 1980s in Italy, it has made male elegance its spearhead, before gradually falling into disuse. Bought by Mayhoola (a Qatari group that already owns Valentino, editor’s note), the tailor’s house is experiencing a new lease of life and even has its shows at Milan’s fashion week.
At the head of the creation, Rocco Iannone, an unknown designer who cleverly reinvents the brand’s codes. Without overdoing it, he proposes a new version of Italian chic, with just the right amount of eccentricity and casualness to seduce the younger generation. Looking forward to the e-shop.
A-Cold-Wall, a hot hype
Few brands attract such high public interest after only a few seasons of existence. The reason for all this hype? Samuel Ross, creator o fA-Cold-Wall, is a former collaborator of Virgil Abloh, star designer behind Off-White and Louis Vuitton‘s men’s line. That’s all it took to unleash the fans’ passions: during the show in London, dozens of high school students gathered in front of the entrance hoping to attend it.
In the vein of his mentor, he plays on the utility register and imagines a deconstructed streetwear, rather interesting, without being completely different from the other labels in a similar style.
Mowalola‘s melting pot
Defining herself as a pan-African, Mowalola Ogunlesi is the designer who brings Nigeria to London. Graduated in 2017 only, she begins in the Fashion East incubator (bringing together several emerging talents in a large fashion show, editor’s note) where she is quickly spotted. Combining her origins with European influences, her fashion plays with the traditional boundaries between genres, relying on a great deal of motifs and prints.
After two collections that testify to a certain creative vision, it remains to be seen how her vision can be translated from the podiums to the doors of a shop.
The oneiric Linder
For his F/W 19 collection, Kirk Millar, the mastermind behind Linder, was inspired by a fantasized Russia and created a modern interpretation of the Romanovs’ wardrobe. It is this spirit of conceptualization, not unlike Yves Saint Laurent’s imaginary travels in Asia, that has seduced us the most in a context where fashion no longer invites us to dream as often.
In general, there is always a form of poetry in it, coupled with more obscure tendencies. Cultivating a form of retro aesthetics, his pieces easily add character to a look. Good news: the e-shop is actually on sale…. •