Last week, the Spring / Summer 2020 fashion month ended — a special edition in many respects... Fendi presented its first collection without the one who remained its artistic director for more than fifty years, Karl Lagerfeld. Another major first: London opened the doors of some shows to the public, for which it was enough to buy an entrance ticket. Marie S’infiltre brightly crashed Chanel's runway, before being kicked out by G.I. Hadid, and Rihanna definitely signed the death of Victoria's Secret with her Savage x Fenty lingerie show, which finally gave a good reason for my Amazon Video subscription.
Moreover, this season marks the beginning of a new decade... If the 2010's are characterized by the explosion of social networks, the notion of street style and the reign of sneakers, what will the coming years bring? In a world where style follows a cycle of a decade, these collections offer us an indication of what to wear until I turn 35. So, what trends are already emerging? How does this new era begin?
Suit me up
In response to the omnipresence of streetwear, many designers support the suit's revival — a phenomenon we already told you about a few months ago, which continues to grow a little more each season. We dust it off, mistreat it, rethink it. Ironically, it even inherits the wide cuts of the style from which it actually wants to escape.
At Balenciaga, the blazer reaches the proportions of a long coat. For both men and women, Lacoste chooses pop colours, while Givenchy opts for a more precious shape, contrasted by Bermuda shorts. While playing with fabrics, tones and volume effects, this good old-fashioned suit oscillates between formal and casual, without resembling dad's uniform.
Since the beginning of this decade pleads in favour of elegance, it logically tackles one of its ultimate forms: the tuxedo.
A symbol of power and seduction, it is worn close to the body and is distinguished by the richness of its details. At Mugler, it meets the underwear trend. Designed for a sensual woman, it is put on over a basque, when it does not turn into a bustier. More relaxed, the man acts cooler, trading his white shirt for a tee, or switching to a patterned jacket.
That 70’s show
Another time, another influence. Heading towards the 1970s, their long point collars and prints stolen from IKEA cushions. The silhouettes give pride of place to colours, flirt with Space Age retro-futuristic notes, or slum it under the ball of a discotheque. In short, the big houses have understood the enthusiasm around vintage pieces.
Less pronounced than on the Bee Gees, flared pants comes out of the shadows subtly. Shades of bright orange slip into a pattern mix. Long live the trapezoids cuts, tartans, mini and little scarves tied around the neck. Yet, it is better to hold on to a few touches at first, unless you're dressing up as Starsky & Hutch at the Comic Con.
Setting up camp
Last year's MET Gala theme seems to have left its mark. A celebration of "camp", somewhere between an exaggerated vision of style and an ode to extravagance, we witness the appearance of an almost carefree fashion, proclaiming loud and clear its desire for lightness. It takes the form of a mini dress embellished with hundreds of feathers at Valentino, while it adopts that of colourful patches sewn onto a denim outfit (coupled with cowboy boots) at Jeremy Scott.
The expression of excess, camp follows only one rule: nothing is ever enough. A word to the wise...
After the perfecto, the bomber and the down jackets, it's time for the trench coat to become the next star coat, confirming the come back of a rather classic look.
Offering itself a refreshing look, it comes in a multitude of versions: silver at JW Anderson, high on streetwear at Burberry, or perforated with XXL dots at Margiela. Like the suit, it blurs the lines between traditional and modern references, establishing itself as a piece at the crossroads of styles.
50 shades of monochrome
As a response to an excessive logomania and the abuse of Pantone colour charts, the 2020 wardrobe adopts a more limited palette. Plain, monochromatic, it conveys a form of refinement carried by a no-frills look.
For maximum effect, vary the cuts and lengths, but most of all the materials. Combine suede and gabardine à la Hermès, leather and wool like Tom Ford, or silk and linen. Look for different textures, which will bring depth to your looks while preserving its harmony.
Less is more
"The person is more important than the clothes. Style is more important than the clothes," says Miucci Prada, opening her show with a simple polo-skirt look.
At a time when millions of people march to protect the environment, when students go on strike and experts speculate about the end of our civilisation, fashion can no longer continue to turn a blind eye. In this spirit, several labels are counting on a timeless wardrobe, designed to last. Minimalist, it is composed above all of perfectly cut essentials, whose aesthetics refuse the frantic rhythm of the race to the latest trend.
What if the future of our closet was not so much about novelty, but rather the fact of proposing another version of what already exists in order to develop better habits...? •